Change

On August 8, 2008 I stepped off of the plane in Osaka.  Greeted by the sticky thickness that is summer air, and the sweat that comes with stillness, I took a train to Susami once again.  Our second year has begun.

While returning to Susami this August seems very similar to when I arrived exactly 12 months ago, there are changes around here.  Things are different.  I actually know people, I have a (sort of) sense of community within the local private walls.  Susami feels a bit more like home the second time around.

There are more obvious changes as well.  The biggest is that we have a new Okuwa.  Okuwa is the local grocery store chain and for months there were rumors of the huge, new Okuwa being built less than a mile from the old one.  There are debates about whether or not the size of the new store is actually bigger than the old one, but there is certainly a bigger parking lot.  And–get this–it’s open till midnight!

More people drive from more places to visit our new Okuwa, with an area for cars that’s larger than the actual building.  There is no more slipping into Okuwa for an item or two, undetected (or feeling undetected anyway).  Living in a town of less than 5, 000 people and having performed at most major functions, everyone’s seen me before in the past 12 months.  But now, because people come from other towns just to go to our Okuwa, people stare at me when I shop.

But, Okuwa seems to be much more than the place to buy groceries.  Okuwa has become somewhat of the new local hang out.  In the morning, the older women of town stop by to pick up whatever they couldn’t get at the farmer’s market, catching up with friends as they travel between the two hot spots.  At 4pm the young mothers can be found chatting in the aisles as their little ones play (and scream and run) with friends near the candy.  Night time brings the teenage crowd, slinking up and down the rows in groups, eventually buying a few things between them.  And, there’s the crew of old men who show up at lunch time–no chatting for them, but lots of strolling before actual purchase.

Shopping has lost it’s efficiency.  The store’s larger, but carries nearly the same products.  And socializing is a required aspect of the event.  Makes you wonder how the community would change if someone opened up a coffee shop around here, or a place for kids to hang out.

———————————————-

Well, today’s the start of Obon.  The ancestral spirits have returned and, therefore, so have all their relatives from all over the country.  The spirits will stay for just 3 days, so there’s lots to do and lots of celebrating.  We’re looking forward to the Bon Odori (Bon Dance) hosted by our very own neighborhood tomorrow night, followed by fireworks.  Friday night is the ceremony to send the ancestors back–in Susami the send-off is in the ocean.  Hopefully I’ll have some photos of this to share soon.